First-Time RV Buying Guide: What We Learned Shopping for Our First Rig

Class A vs Class C — What We've Found

Class A motorhomes give you the most living space and the most road presence. Under 35 feet you get a manageable size without sacrificing too much comfort. The tradeoff is cost — not just the purchase price but everything that comes with a larger, heavier vehicle. Tires on a Class A, especially diesel pushers, are a significant ongoing expense that most first-time buyers underestimate. A single tire replacement on a diesel Class A can run $400–$600, and you have six of them.

Class C motorhomes sit on a truck or van chassis, which makes financing easier, maintenance more straightforward, and parts more accessible. They're generally more fuel efficient than a comparable Class A and easier to maneuver in tight campgrounds. The tradeoff is less living space and a cab-over bunk that eats into headroom.

For a first RV under $100K, a Class C in the 28–35 foot range gives you the best balance of livability, drivability, and total cost of ownership. That said — if you find the right Class A at the right price, the driving experience and interior space are hard to argue with.

Real Cost of Ownership — Beyond the Sticker Price

This is where most first-time buyers get surprised. The purchase price is just the starting point.

Fuel: Class A diesel engines are more fuel efficient than gas at highway speeds but the fuel itself costs more. Budget 7–10 MPG depending on the rig and how you drive.

Tires: Factor in a full tire replacement every 5–7 years regardless of tread wear — rubber degrades. On a Class A diesel that's a $2,500–$3,500 expense. On a Class C it's significantly less.

Maintenance: Generator service, roof seals, slide-out maintenance, and brake checks add up annually. Budget $1,500–$3,000 per year for routine maintenance on a used rig.

Campsite fees: Full hookup sites at established campgrounds run $40–$80 per night. State park sites are cheaper. RV resort rates can exceed $100 per night in peak season.

Storage — More Limited and More Expensive Than Expected

If you can't store the RV at home, monthly storage costs are a real line item in your budget. Covered storage in Tennessee runs $150–$300 per month depending on size and location. Uncovered outdoor storage is cheaper but exposes the roof and exterior to weather year-round.

The bigger surprise for most buyers is availability — good covered storage facilities in many areas have waiting lists. Start researching storage options in your area before you buy, not after.

Financing — Limited Options and Higher Rates Than Expected

RV loans are not the same as car loans. Expect:

• Interest rates of 8–12% for used RVs depending on age and your credit profile

• Loan terms of 10–20 years on higher purchase prices

• Some lenders won't finance RVs over a certain age — typically 10–15 years old

• Fewer lenders overall compared to auto financing

Credit unions tend to offer better RV loan rates than traditional banks. It's worth getting pre-approved before you walk onto a dealer lot — it gives you a real number to work with and strengthens your negotiating position.

Insurance

RV insurance is separate from auto insurance and the cost varies significantly based on:

• Class A vs Class C

• Full-timer vs recreational use

• Storage location

• Coverage level — liability only vs comprehensive

Get quotes from RV-specific insurers — Progressive, Roamly, and Good Sam are the most commonly used. Don't wait until you're signing papers to figure out insurance costs — get quotes early so it's part of your total budget calculation.

New vs Used — Our Take

Under $100K you have real options in both categories. A new Class C in the 28–32 foot range from a reputable manufacturer will come in at $80–$100K at most dealers. A used version of the same rig — 3–5 years old with low miles — can be found for $45–$65K.

The depreciation hit on a new RV is significant — similar to a new car but steeper in the first two years. For a first RV especially, buying used makes financial sense. You're still learning how you actually use the rig, what you wish it had, and what you'd do differently. A used first RV lets you figure that out without absorbing maximum depreciation.

Recall Check — Don't Skip This Step

RVs are subject to both NHTSA recalls (covering the chassis and drivetrain) and manufacturer recalls (covering the coach, appliances, and systems). A used RV could have open recalls that the previous owner never addressed.

Two places to check:

• NHTSA recall database — nhtsa.gov/recalls — enter the VIN to check for any open federal safety recalls on the chassis

• RVIA and manufacturer recall notices — check the specific manufacturer's website for any coach-related recalls by VIN or model year

• ☐ Run the VIN through NHTSA recall database — confirm all recalls closed or note open ones

• ☐ Check manufacturer website for coach-specific recalls by model and year

• ☐ Ask dealer to provide documentation of any recall repairs completed

Open recalls aren't necessarily a dealbreaker — but they need to be disclosed, documented, and either resolved before purchase or negotiated into the price. Never assume a dealer has addressed an open recall without written confirmation.

Independent RV Inspection — Worth Every Dollar

Never skip an independent inspection on a used RV. A dealer walkthrough is not the same thing — a dealer's job is to sell the rig, not protect your interests.

An independent RV inspector works for you. They'll catch water damage, roof issues, mechanical problems, and system failures that aren't visible during a casual walkthrough. A typical inspection runs $150–$400 depending on the size of the rig and the inspector's thoroughness. That cost is nothing compared to discovering a $5,000 roof repair after you've signed.

Find a certified RV inspector:

• NRVIA — nrvia.org

• RVTI — rvti.org

• ☐ Roof condition and all seams

• ☐ Water intrusion and moisture readings throughout the coach

• ☐ All mechanical systems — engine, transmission, brakes, chassis

• ☐ Electrical systems — shore power, inverter, batteries, solar if equipped

• ☐ Propane system — all appliances, lines, and connections

• ☐ Slide-outs — operation, seals, and structural condition

• ☐ HVAC — AC, furnace, and water heater

• ☐ Plumbing — fresh, gray, and black water systems

• ☐ Title — confirm it's clean, no liens

What to Look for on a Used RV — Quick Inspection Checklist

The single most important thing on any used RV inspection is the roof. Water damage is the most common and most expensive problem on used rigs. Check every seam, every vent, every corner.

• ☐ Roof — check all seams, vents, and edges for cracks or soft spots

• ☐ Ceiling interior — look for water stains, soft spots, or bubbling

• ☐ Slide-outs — run them in and out, check seals on all four edges

• ☐ Underbelly — look for road damage, rust, or moisture

• ☐ Generator — start it, run it under load

• ☐ All appliances — run the fridge, stove, microwave, AC, and furnace

• ☐ Water system — run all faucets, check under sinks for leaks

• ☐ Electrical — test every outlet, check the shore power connection

• ☐ Tires — check age (DOT date code), tread, and sidewall condition

• ☐ Brakes — ask for service records

• ☐ Chassis — check for rust, frame damage, or previous accident repair

RV Buying Checklist — Before You Sign

• ☐ Total budget set including purchase, tax, title, and first year ownership costs

• ☐ Storage solution identified and confirmed available

• ☐ Insurance quotes obtained from at least two RV-specific providers

• ☐ Financing pre-approval in hand before visiting dealers

• ☐ Recall check completed via NHTSA and manufacturer

• ☐ Independent inspection completed by NRVIA or RVTI certified inspector

• ☐ Pre-purchase walkthrough completed — every system demonstrated working

• ☐ Delivery checklist signed off — confirm everything promised is on the rig

• ☐ First service appointment scheduled

• ☐ Trip one planned — use our First-Time RV Renter Checklist to make sure you are ready before you leave the driveway.

Our Current Thinking

We're targeting Class C and smaller Class A motorhomes under 35 feet in the $50–$100K range. The Tiffin Allegro and similar quality mid-range Class A models keep coming up in our research as solid first rigs at a reasonable price point. Class C options from Thor, Coachmen, and Forest River in the 30–33 foot range hit the sweet spot on livability and cost of ownership for how we plan to use it.

We'll update this guide as we get further into the process.

In the meantime, if you are already planning trip one, our First-Time RV Renter Checklist covers everything from booking day to departure — packing, hookups, dogs, and the stuff nobody tells you until you are already at the campsite.

While you're planning the rig — we make RV life shirts over at Horacio & Visconti for people who are already living this life in their heads. Built on Comfort Colors, honest about what the road actually looks like.